Stephens Passage & Juneau
Days One, Two, & Three - Alaska - 2018
After departing Seattle, a full day at sea followed by a day in Juneau to do some whale watching.
Map Credit: OpenStreetMap
1. Olympic National Park from Puget Sound
Olympic National Park -established as a National Park in 1938 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981- is seen shrouded in clouds.
Normally, I wouldn’t consider myself a “cruise person”: the fixed schedule -which leaves no room for improvisation or impulsiveness- is a major departure from my typical travel style. But, there are some places -the coast of Chile, the fjords of Norway, and, of course, the Inside Passage of Alaska- which are only truly accessible by a large passenger vessel. Pulling away from Pier 91 in Seattle, I had my reservations…but when I saw Olympic National Park from afar, through the fog, and surrounded by deep blue water, I knew at least I could “man the rail” of the ship and have a good experience.
2. Olympic National Park from the Strait of Juan de Fuca
Olympic National Park seen nearby Port Angeles, Washington State. Olympic National Park is notable primarily as a rainforest, but in actuality has three distinct ecosystems.
What immediately captivated me was just how quickly the weather changed in this part of the world. The voyage began in late May 2018 (what you might consider “shoulder season” for the Inside Passage), and we were still dealing with some leftover spring rainy weather. But just as quickly as it would appear, it would pass, then return with a stiff wind, then calm. It was like experiencing multiple climates within a few hours. As a photographer, this means you must be ready for anything.
3. Puget Sound Pilot Boat
Harbor pilots are compulsory for large ships entering and exiting Puget Sound.
I spend my days sitting behind a desk in an office, so it often fascinates me to wonder about more exciting vocations. When people ask this harbor pilot what they do for a living, they must love seeing the looks on people’s faces when they say, “Well, I speed alongside 300-meter long, $400 million vessels, climb onto them up a rope ladder, and take command to make sure it doesn’t run into anything important.” Neat stuff.
4. Hazy Holland America
The Holland American ship MS Eurodam is seen in dense fog nearby Vancouver Island.
This ship departed Seattle’s Pier 91 shortly before us, and -as far as I could discern- she and our boat shadowed one another for a significant part of the journey. This route is becoming increasingly packed with 2000-plus passenger floating cities, so much so that the major lines’ vessels must hopscotch one another in order to be accommodated in what used to be the small ports which dot the Inside Passage.
5. Playful Seals
Adult harbor seals can become 1.85 meters (6 feet) and 130 kilograms (290 pounds).
On the second day the weather became violent and the seas rough. While most passengers were content exploring the amenities of the ship, I was content to see what wildlife I could spot. I am probably the only person who spotted these seals in the swells.
6. Moresby Island Rainbow
Moresby Island is known as Gwaii Haanas in the Haida language, a local language spoken only by approximately 20 persons.
Late in the afternoon -long after the ship’s infirmary ran out of antiemetic- the weather broke and the 50-plus-knot headwind subsided, leaving behind a rainbow as recompense for a day of torture for many.
7. Pacific Island Moonrise
A rising moon can have the appearance of moving quickly across the sky when on a moving sea vessel - especially so if clouds are moving perpendicular to the ship.
There is something special about a moonrise at sea. On the second evening, the moon rather hurriedly and somewhat unexpectedly appeared from behind a thick line of clouds. Rarely am I taken aback by something I see suddenly, but this phenomenon certainly caught my attention. I then learned just how tricky it is photographing the moon on a moving vessel.
8. Stephens Passage Orca
Orca -of course commonly known as killer whales- are more closely related to dolphins than humpback whales.
I woke up bright-and-early on day three, optimistic after the seas calmed and the skies cleared the evening before. Unfortunately, the clouds and fog reappeared in the night, obscuring the view of the picturesque Stephens Passage until the sun whisked them away later in the morning. However, much like the seals the day before, I am confident I am the only one who spotted the quickly-appearing-then-disappearing pod of killer whales which appeared starboard at around 430AM.
9. Stephens Passage Clouds
A small boat navigates rough water and intermittent fog in the inlet leading to Juneau, Alaska.
Somewhat disoriented by not being able to see through the clouds, I was pleasantly surprised to see mountains so nearby when the haze finally rolled way.
10. Foggy Navigation Hazard
These four islets appeared without warning through the fog.
Then, just as quickly as it appeared, the fog returned. As we passed these small islands, I couldn’t help but think about the first open-sea sailors who explored these waters in their tall sailing ships. The Inside Passage is dotted with thousands of small islands and other hazards, not to mention the aforementioned unpredictable weather. Being aboard one of those ships must have been quite an adventure.
11. Burning Through the Fog
The sun peaks through the fog en route to Juneau, Alaska.
When this trip was booked, I assumed I would have to contend with fog, clouds, and rain the majority of the time. Thus far, my prediction was proving accurate; however, my spirits were certainly buoyed (no pun intended) as the sun made an appearance nearby Juneau, Alaska.
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12. Whale Watching Boat
Whale watching is an extremely popular activity for visitors to Juneau and sightings are often guaranteed for in-season departures.
Our whale watching boat -similar in most every respect to this one- was well appointed and had ample indoor seating and outdoor standing room.
13. Polite Seal
This harbor seal is ready for its close-up.
My excursion for the day in Juneau was a combination whale watching tour and visit to the Mendenhall Glacier. Two busloads worth of passengers disembarked for this tour and it was really luck of the draw whether you would visit the glacier first, or head out to the whale boat. As we arrived at the dock for the whale cruise, it began raining rather steadily. “What luck,” I thought, as I stood on deck frantically trying to cover my camera with my raincoat (to be fair, the boat had a cabin, but of course I wouldn’t resort to heading under cover unless absolutely necessary.) Pulling away from the dock, the rain stopped, as if a mystical, giant spigot were turned off. After cleaning my soaked lens, this seal swam aside the boat as if to say, “fortune smiles upon thee.”
14. Humpback Breach
This humpback whale shows its defining dorsal fin.
There is something so amazing and surreal about seeing a whale up-close in the wild, especially for the first time. You only get the faintest appreciation for their size when you see a fraction of their massive bulk appear above the waterline, but you slowly come to the realization that such a creature could easily capsize your small spotting boat.
15. Whale Tail
Individual humpback whales can be differentiated by markings on their tails.
I consider myself fortunate to have seen a humpback whale so close up. Unpredictable migratory patterns, in particular, mean that you have no real idea where one may appear. Spray is a good indication of where to look, of course - but Alaska whale boat captains are not allowed to “follow” whales once they are spotted.
16. Whale Wave
Humpback whales breach rather suddenly and unpredictably, but will usually surface their dorsal fin before diving with their tails out of the water.
Just hearing the “whoosh” of the water when a whale lifts its tail before a dive is amazing. Of course, this means the whale is disappearing underwater, and you have upwards of eight minutes to contemplate what you just witnessed before the whale possibly reappears for an encore. Hearing grown-ups collectively pronounce their astonishment like children at what they just witnessed is alone worth the price of admission.
17. Herbert Glacier
Herbert Glacier -not as famous as next-door Mendenhall Glacier- is nonetheless notable for the many tourist-oriented dog sledding companies which operate here.
Whale watching is a truly amazing experience, but I am also glad between appearances that I was able to enjoy the amazing scenery around Juneau, Alaska. A common refrain from this trip, I realize, but I would have liked more time to explore other activities in Juneau, especially the opportunity to visit a dog sledding camp.
18. Sea Lion Rock
On a rock face near Point Bridget State Park, a harem of sea lions were enjoying the temporary sunshine.
Sea lions are fascinating mammals: despite spending most of their time in water, they must climb up on land (called “hauling-out”) to mate and give birth. They will also stay in one spot for long periods of time so the bull can get larger and stronger for the moments when his spot at the top is challenged.
19. Curious Sea Lion
Sea lions are often sensitive to human activity -especially encroaching sea vessels- and tour operators strive to keep a fair distance to avoid psychological damage.
There were a few sea lions jumping and splashing in the water. It was not evident to me if they were being playful or defensive of the harem. Nonetheless, watching these creatures splash around so playfully was a treat.
20. Sea Lion Splash
As quickly as the sea lion appeared, it returned to the water.
Sea lions’ speed as swimmers also amazes me: despite often weighing in over 100-kilograms, sea lions can hit 20-plus knots underwater.
21. Sentinel Island Light
The Sentinel Island Light is a 1930’s masterpiece, and was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2002,
The lighthouse was added after the Princess May ran aground on the rocks around Sentinel Island in 1910. You’ve probably seen a picture of this wreck at some point in your life, with Princess May’s bow sticking feet above the waterline (if you are still unsure of what I speak, consult your favorite search engine or local library).
22. Sentinel Island Bald Eagles
Two mature bald eagles perch atop a tree on Sentinel Island, just north of Juneau, Alaska.
Photographer’s Comment: This is certainly one of my favorite photographs from this trip. While it is, indeed, technically-flawed (despite being taken at 1/2000th of a second, there are hints of motion blur due to the 300mm lens’ image stabilizer being pushed to the limit on the moving boat), the sense of movement in the trees, the appearance of moving fog, and the look of attentiveness in the eagles gives the scene urgency.
23. Favorite Channel
The Sentinel Island Lighthouse marks the beginning of Favorite Channel, a body of water running southwards towards Juneau, Alaska.
Although only 25-kilometers long, Favorite Channel really is a good encapsulation of Southeast Alaska - you have mountains, glaciers, deep blue water, amazing wildlife, rainforests, lots of islands of different sizes, quaint fishing towns (if Juneau itself still qualifies in that regard), and wild variations in weather. I couldn’t help but think it would be fun to kayak this stretch of water.
24. A Mountain From the Fog
Here, a mountain peak peeks through the fog and clouds nearby Juneau, Alaska.
With its deep fjords and glacier-worn pointed mountains, this part of the world reminded me of equal parts Norway and Switzerland. If you’ve never been to either, do know that’s quite a statement.
25. Whale Spray
Whale spray, often called “blow” (hence, “blowhole”) isn’t water expelled by the whale; rather, it is exhaled air that condenses to form a vapor.
There is something beyond words in seeing (and hearing!) a whale spray water vapor into the air. I know I certainly won’t ever forget what it felt like when this whale returned -seemingly out of nowhere- straight-dead ahead of me and bellowed.
26. One Last Surface
This humpback whale flashes its tail one last time before submerging underwater and -presumably- heading out to sea.
This was the last whale we saw on the Juneau whale watching tour. It was a bit bittersweet - I felt I could spend the whole rest of the day (week? maybe even month!) on the deck of that boat, but I was certainly appreciative of what I had seen.
These particular humpback whales typically head to Hawaii in the winter. Wouldn’t it be fantastic to one day visit these amazing creatures in their other home? Perhaps even see one or two of the same ones?
27. And the Clouds Keep Rolling In
A large cloud wall casts an ominous shadow on the waters near Juneau, Alaska.
As mentioned previously, two groups were divided equally at the dockside in Juneau - one headed to Mendenhall Glacier, while my group headed out to see the whales. Generally speaking, all of the animal encounters we had -from the first seal to the last humpback whale- were under clear skies, and I considered myself fortunate that our 90-minute voyage was only bookended by rain showers. I’ll never know for sure, but I suspect based on the swirling clouds in the sky as we neared the dock that the next group out was not so fortunate.
28. Mendenhall Glacier
Located just outside of Juneau, Alaska, Mendenhall Glacier has become the poster-child for the anthropogenic global warming debate; whereas the glacier has retreated 2.5+ kilometers since 1900, pundits may also claim it has retreated about 4-kilometers since 1500, well before the industrial revolution.
I had a very difficult time visiting Mendenhall Glacier, although this discomfort was not unexpected. As anticipated, there were tons of people taking smiling photographs with the glacier in the background. Regardless of your opinion about anthropogenic global warming, the retreat of a glacier is not something meant to be celebrated. Frankly, “morose” and “moribund” were the words that came to my mind. I’m not in a position to comment as to the causes of global warming (for me, the fact that the planet is warming is not in dispute), and I am certainly not capable of providing answers. What I do believe is that scientists and policymakers have done a disservice to the people of Earth by not being able to have a dispassionate, politically-neutral discussion about this topic. Not all is lost, however; I have always maintained that humanity is capable of demonstrating vast, unified technological advancement when the need is most dire, and many developments in carbon capture, carbon-neutral power generation, and power storage give me hope.
