Lagunas Blanca, Verde, & Colorada
Day Three - Chile & Bolivia - 2017
Departing San Pedro de Atacama, we crossed the border into Bolivia, visiting Lagunas Blanca and Verde, followed by Salvador Dalí Desert, Termas de Polques, and Laguna Colorada.
Map Credit: OpenStreetMap
Map Credit: OpenStreetMap
1. Chile-Bolivia Border
Chile and Bolivia have a long-strained relationship as the result of the 19th century War of the Pacific. As a result of this conflict, Bolivia ceded territory to Chile, including the Atacama and its coastal regions, resulting in Bolivia becoming a land-locked country.
The following day, I began my four day, three night journey to Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia. After departing San Pedro de Atacama, we arrived at the Hito Cajon border crossing. Bolivia -who as of 2018 maintains visa reciprocity with the United States- normally requires a 10-year, $160 U.S. visa purchasable at this border station. My tour guide gave me the option of paying for the visa outright or negotiating for a significantly cheaper short-term stamp on a piece of paper. This option was only available since I would be returning back through Hito Cajon on the way out of Bolivia, and not heading on further into Bolivia. I opted for the cheaper option and was soon cleared into the country.
2. Laguna Blanca #1
Laguna Blanca sits at 4350 meters (14270 feet) within Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve. It gets its distinctive color from white sediment eroded from the nearby mountains which are suspended in the water.
Just a short distance past Hito Cajon is Laguna Blanca, the first of the Bolivian Altiplano’s many amazing secrets. Within three hours of departing San Pedro de Atacama, we had climbed over 2000 meters (over 6000 feet), a rate of altitude acclimation not recommended by physicians or mountaineers. Since the truck was doing the heavy-lifting, I hardly seemed to notice until I exited and started moving about. The view certainly didn’t hurt, however….
3. Laguna Blanca #2
Laguna Blanca sits nearby the Bolivia-Chile border, just northeast of Licancabur.
It’s hard to not be immediately blown away by the scenery here, and realistically the only way to see any of it is on the San Pedro de Atacama - Uyuni transfer. When I was first planning my trip to Uyuni, I had two options: visit via San Pedro de Atacama near the end of the year when the roads are passable and the weather is favorable, or wait until the early part of the year when the Salar de Uyuni is mirrored from rainfall and transfer from La Paz, Bolivia as the San Pedro de Atacama route is washed out. I was immediately glad I picked the former option, as I am not sure I would have ever considered coming back through on this amazing road.
4. Andean Gull at Laguna Blanca
The andean gull, a common bird on the west coast of South America, is considered unusual in that it breeds inland rather than on the coast. This individual is exhibiting its breeding plumage.
It amazed me to see this bird living at such high altitudes -you need cabin air in aircraft at this altitude, for example- and in such saline water. As Dr. Ian Malcolm said, “Life, uh, finds a way.”
5. Laguna Verde #1
Laguna Verde is located immediately west of Laguna Blanca, and the two lakes almost merge during the rainy season.
Laguna Verde was our next stop, only a few minutes away from Laguna Blanca. This water is the most amazing color green, and I’m not sure my photograph is really doing it justice.
6. Laguna Verde #2
Laguna Verde gets its green color from copper from the nearby mountains.
It is easy to see in this photograph that the water level in Laguna Verde is extremely low, owing to it being the end of the dry season.
7. Bolivian Altiplano
The Bolivian Altiplano is the world’s second largest high plateau aside from Tibet and represents an area between two ridges of the Andes Mountains where water does not drain to either the Atlantic or Pacific Oceans (a condition called endorheism).
Amazingly, on this long stretch of sand some 4600 meters (14600 feet) above sea level, we passed two bicyclists traveling to, presumably, San Pedro de Atacama. Being a day’s ride in either direction from civilization (and drinking water), it really made me appreciate man’s determination and willingness to explore.
8. Salvador Dalí Desert
This area’s name makes reference to the surrealist desert paintings of Salvador Dalí. While it is unclear if these sands served as Dalí’s inspiration, the resemblance between the two is difficult to ignore.
We arrived at this small stretch of desert around mid-day, and -as a result of the season, the altitude, the nearly crystal-clear sky, and the albedo of the sand- the brightness was unlike anything I had experienced before.
9. Termas de Polques
A hot springs in which you can take a quick dip, the Termas de Polques’ water reaches nearly 30 Celsius (86 Fahrenheit).
We were given a quick break at Termas de Polques where you had the option of hopping into swim trunks and taking a quick dip. Not keen on being damp in a car, I instead explored the little lake which feeds the hot springs. It reminded me very much of the Grand Prismatic Spring in Yellowstone National Park.
10. Sol de Mañana
The Sol de Mañana is, despite appearances, not a geyser but a sulphur spring.
It was at Sol de Mañana we reached the highest point of our journey - about 4900 meters (16000 feet), some 2500 meters (8000 feet) higher than where we began our day. Prior to leaving for this trip, I obtained a prescription for a acetazolamide diuretic, and I was grateful I had it as many in my party were beginning to exhibit signs of altitude sickness. I highly encourage you to get altitude sickness medicine if you are traveling this route.
11. Laguna Colorada Overlook
Laguna Colorada is a large (60 km2 / 23 sq mi) shallow lake famous for its red color.
I was pleased to have Laguna Colorada in sight - not only did it mean a much-needed lunch, it meant that we had descended some 600 meters (2000 feet) from our highest point.
12. Altiplano Llamas
Several llamas congregate nearby Laguna Colorada.
Who doesn’t like llamas?
13. Like a Llama in the Wind
The bright colored tags indicate to whom these llamas belong.
The llama is the quintessential South American animal, and there is something special about seeing them in the wild - well, “wild" being a relative term as all llamas are domesticated.
14. Wild Vicuña
The fur of the vicuña is reputed to be the most soft of natural fibers. The slow growth of the fur makes it one of the most expensive of natural commodities.
It must be difficult for vicuñas and llamas to live in such harsh conditions as food and drinkable water are so sparse in this part of the Andes. Amazing, frankly.
15. Laguna Colorada #1
Laguna Colorada gets its distinctive color from algae blooms and minerals diluted in the water.
Home to over 50 species of birds, Laguna Colorada is best known for its population of James’s flamingo. The birds that live here eat algae, which is plentiful in the lake. The following seven photographs are of these majestic birds and their amazing home.
16. Laguna Colorada #2
17. Laguna Colorada #3
18. Laguna Colorada #4
19. Laguna Colorada #5
20. Laguna Colorada #6
21. Laguna Colorada #7
22. Laguna Colorada #8
23. Altiplano Milky Way
The Milky Way rises over the Bolivian Altiplano, home to one of the darkest, clearest in the world.
We spent the evening at the Refugio Laguna Colorada, a youth hostel-type hotel located seemingly in the middle of nowhere in the Bolivian Altiplano. After a great game of cards with my fellow travelers, I decided to head outside and take some night photographs (with some lucky Canon-using fellow travelers in tow). While it was 27+ Celsius (80+ Fahrenheit) during the day, the temperature plunged to -14C (7F) at night. The wind in the Altiplano was fierce, and -despite my best intentions- I could only manage to take a couple of night photographs before I had to shelter. The wind moved my tripod for many shots, but I managed to get this one just right.
