Khiva
Days Six & Seven - Uzbekistan & Oman - 2025
A day-and-a-half in Khiva, whose Itchan Kala (walled city) is among the world’s finest.
1. Kalta Minor #1
Standing 29 meters / 95 feet tall, Kalta Minor was purportedly intended to be the tallest minaret in the world if finished …
We departed Bukhara early in the morning to make our way to Khiva, 386 kilometers / 240 miles to the northwest. This is a long, long drive, in our case taking around seven hours to complete. Admittedly, the scenery isn’t pleasant to look at aside from a brief stretch along the Turkmenistan border; also, crossing the Amu Darya river over a tandem railway / roadway bridge was pretty neat. Otherwise, it was a slog.
After arrival and check-in at our hotel, we had a quick orientation walk through the compact and easy-to-navigate Itchan Kala (walled city). Getting from one side of Itchan Kala to the other takes perhaps ten minutes and soon we were cut loose to explore. This gave us about an hour to take some pictures of sunset, which was particularly stunning that evening
Nine additional photos of my post-orientation walk, uh, walk follow.
2. Kalta Minor #2
… Its construction ceased when its sponsor, the Khan of Khiva Muhammad Amin, died in battle.
3. Ota Gate
The Ota Gate was originally built around 1828; destroyed in 1920, it was rebuilt in the 1970s.
4. Kuhna Ark Sunburst #1
5. Kuhna Ark Sunburst #2
6. A Quiet Street in Khiva #1
7. Who Needs a Truck When You Have a Moskvich?
The Moskvich 412 was manufactured between 1967 and 1982, with over 2 million total units produced.
8. Kuhna Ark Gate
Built in the 17th century, Kuhna Ark served as the administrative center for the Khanate of Khiva.
9. Kuhna Ark Sunset #1
10. Kuhna Ark Sunset
11. Polvon Gate
Built in its current form in 1806 and renovated many times since, Polvon Gate served as the main entrance to the Itchan Kala, the walled inner city of Khiva.
Now about here is the point this trip temporarily went off the rails. My plan was to wake up early and walk around the center of Khiva around sunrise, hopefully to avoid crowds and get some good golden hour photos. However, after looking to refill my water bottle from the lobby water dispenser, the electronic lock on my room just refused to open. I went to the desk and had my key card reprogramed, and it refused to open. The front desk staff retrieved a gigantic bag of dozens of unmarked keys for the backup key lock. None of them worked. So, he had to call a repairman to come and disassemble the entire door. If only I had taken my backpack with me I would have had an entire morning to explore but, alas, I did not. To add insult to injury, the water dispenser had no water….
Anyway, after getting all of that sorted it was time for our group walking tour of the city.
12. Kalta Minor #3
Kalta Minor is the only minaret structure in the world completely covered by tiles.
We started over by the Kalta Minor on the west side of the Itchan Kala. I’d argue this is the most well-known structure in Khiva, even if people don’t know it by name.
13. The Laughing Merchants Statue
We then walked past this no-context statue …
14. Kalta Minor #4
The Kalta Minor is often considered to be part of the Muhammad Amin Khan Madrasa as it is connected to it by a walkway.
… And into the entrance of the Muhammad Amin Khan Madrasah.
15. Muhammad Amin Khan Madrasah
Built in the mid-19th century, the Muhammad Amin Khan Madrasa now exists as a hotel.
The madrasa is currently a hotel which in and of itself is not weird; what is strange, though, is the staff just seems content with letting anyone into the hotel’s courtyard and peek into the empty hotel rooms. At any rate: this invitation for petty larceny aside, I think there was universal consensus we’d much rather be staying here than at our frankly dreck hotel on the other side of town.
16. Kuhna Ark #1
The Kuhna Ark is comprised of several sections, including the Summer Mosque built in 1838 …
Following this we headed into Kunha Ark for a quick visit.
17. Kuhna Ark #2
… And the Reception Courtyard, which stood in front of the Throne Room built around the turn of the 19th century.
I’d have to say this building features some of the best tile work I had seen on the journey up to that point … which in a country that loves tiles is really saying something.
Two more Kunha Ark photographs follow.
18. Kuhna Ark #3
19. Kuhna Ark #4
20. Kutlugmurad Inak Madrasa
Built at the turn of the century, Kutlugmurad Inak Madrasa once had around 100 students; currently it houses the Museum of the Ruler and the Poet.
Next, we made a quick stop at the Museum of the Ruler and the Poet. Our day tour guide was incredibly proud that her ancestor -who was an advisor to the Khanate of Khiva- has a photograph and life-sized figure in the museum. To be clear, it is not the nervous guy seen here, I just thought this one was funny.
21. Juma Mosque
Originally built in the 10th century and rebuilt in its current form in 1788, Juma Mosque is known for having over 200 carved columns supporting its flat roof.
Shuffling across the street to the Juma Mosque, home to dozens and dozens of intricately carved pillars. It is currently under construction, so our access inside the building was limited.
22. Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum #1
Despite bearing his name, there are multiple burial tombs located within the Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum, most prominently several Khans of the Khivan Khanate; that said, Mahmoud is considered to be the patron saint of Khiva and worthy of the honor.
Next we tried to get into the front entrance of the Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum, but the adjoining street was blocked off for the production of a Russian movie. Oh, well. Thankfully, the smaller auxiliary entrance around the corner was open and we could still visit.
23. Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum #2
The production could be seen out through the front entrance, and part of me hopes I randomly show up in the background of this Russian movie!
Anyway, four additional photographs from the mausoleum follow.
24. Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum #3
25. Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum #4
26. Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum #5
27. Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum #6
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28. Toshhovli Palace #1
The Toshhovoli Palace was constructed between 1830 and 1841 for the 5th Khan of the Khiva Khanate …
Our last stop on our city walk was Toshhovli Palace, an impressively large complex with very confusing passageways and nearly identical courtyards. Frankly, if we didn’t have a guide with us I think I would have gotten lost.
Four more photos from Toshhovli Palace follow.
29. Toshhovli Palace #2
… And consists of over 150 rooms …
30. Toshhovli Palace #3
… Surrounding three main courtyards …
31. Toshhovli Palace #4
… Interconnected by intentionally confusing passageways …
32. Toshhovli Palace #5
… And is perhaps known for its massive harem, featuring four large bedrooms for the wives of the Khan.
33. A Quiet Street in Khiva #2
After the guided walk, I made my way back to the hotel to check up on things (honestly, I didn’t trust that the hotel wouldn’t double-book the room they moved me into when the first keypad failed) and refresh for the evening. We had a farewell dinner scheduled that night since some of our group would continue on to Turkmenistan in the morning, and I wanted to relax a bit before getting ready for that.
34. Mausoleum & Minaret
Based off a recommendation from a passing traveler, I decided to make one last stop in Khiva: the Islam Khoja Minaret at sunset. Doing some quick math, I’d be able to photograph the sunset and be able to make my way over to the farewell dinner with a couple of minutes to spare.
35. Islam Khoja Minaret #1
The 56 meter / 183 foot tall Islam Khoja Minaret is the tallest structure in Khiva, the top of which is reachable by walking up … nay, climbing up 175 steep steps …
I cannot recommend visiting Islam Khoja at sunset enough if you are physically able to climb dozens of very, very tall steps and aren’t claustrophobic (the circular stairwell is incredibly small and you will pass people heading in the other direction).
Seven photographs from my sunset session at Islam Khoja Minaret follow.
36. Islam Khoja Minaret #2
… But those making the journey are rewarded with an excellent view across the city.
37. Islam Khoja Minaret #3
38. Islam Khoja Minaret #4
39. Islam Khoja Minaret #5
40. Islam Khoja Minaret #6
41. Islam Khoja Minaret #7
42. Islam Khoja Minaret #8
After a lovely dinner it was time to say goodbye to Khiva and call it a night. We had an incredibly early departure scheduled from our hotel the following morning, and -while staying up at a bar was tempting- I thought better of it and went to sleep.
