Bumpass Hell, Kings Creek, & Devils Kitchen
Day Five - Crater Lake & Lassen Volcanic National Parks - 2025
Today was all about hot springs, fumaroles, and boiling mudpots as I visited the unearthly Bumpass Hell and Devils Kitchen, with a relaxing stop at Kings Creek Falls in between.
1. Bumpass Hell #1
Bumpass Hell is part of the caldera of the once-prominent Mount Tehama.
The following day I decided to string together some shorter hikes in Lassen Volcanic National Park, starting with a trip to Bumpass Hell. Rather than take the standard route from the Scenic Byway down to this area, I decided instead to hike from the Kings Creek Picnic Area past Cold Boiling Lake and up into the caldera of the former Mount Tehama. This route is about 2 miles / 3.2 kilometers longer than the standard route, but significantly less traveled.
2. Bumpass Hell #2
The area, Bumpass Hell, is named for Kendall Vanhook Bumpass, an early settler who accidentally stepped through a thin crust and burned his leg so badly it required amputation; later he remarked, “I have been in Hell.”
I took about 30 minutes to explore Bumpass Hell, admiring its many fumaroles, hot springs, and brilliant colors before returning downhill towards Cold Boiling Lake.
Eight more photographs of Bumpass Hell follow.
3. Bumpass Hell #3
4. Bumpass Hell #4
5. Bumpass Hell #5
6. Bumpass Hell #6
7. Bumpass Hell #7
8. Bumpass Hell #8
9. Bumpass Hell #9
10. Bumpass Hell #10
11. Bumpass Hell to Cold Boiling Lake #1
On the way to / from Cold Boiling Lake, you can better see the edges of the former Mount Tehama caldera.
12. Bumpass Hell to Cold Boiling Lake #2
13. Bumpass Hell to Cold Boiling Lake #3
The 2021 Dixie Fire burned for 105 days across 1,505 square miles / 3,898 square kilometers of five counties in California, including 69% of Lassen Volcanic National Park, of which 22% was burned severely.
About halfway down the trail, you can get a sense of the scale for the devastation caused by the 2021 Dixie Fire, which primarily affected the less-traveled southern and eastern stretches of Lassen Volcanic National Park.
14. Bumpass Hell to Cold Boiling Lake #4
The devastation continues as far as the eye can see, but there are sporadic signs of regrowth and, soon, this area will be fully green again.
15. Cold Boiling Lake #1
Cold Boiling Lake is a pretty reflective lake …
16. Cold Boiling Lake #2
… With, as the name suggests, cold gas pockets which cause the surface to look as if it is boiling.
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17. Kings Creek Falls Trail #1
Not too far from the Cold Boiling Lake trailhead -the Kings Creek Picnic Area- is the trailhead for Kings Creek Falls. Don’t get too confused, though: the falls are not accessible from the picnic area, but rather a pull-off a bit further east along the Scenic Byway.
18. Kings Creek Falls Trail #2
Kings Creek Falls’ main cascade is around 40 feet / 12 meters tall.
While the Kings Creek Falls trail is relatively short at 2.8 miles / 4.5 kilometers, the trail is steep at points, particularly the climb-out. Thankfully, there are lots of nice pull-offs next to the creek where you can rest and enjoy the scenery.
Two more Kings Creek photographs follow.
19. Kings Creek Falls Trail #3
20. Kings Creek Falls Trail #4
21. Devils Kitchen #1
Devils Kitchen is Lassen Volcanic National Park’s second largest geothermal area, after Bumpass Hell … and, yes, “Devils” Kitchen is apparently the correct spelling.
Content with my exploration for the day in the main area of Lassen Volcanic National Park, I headed back to Chester, grabbed a coffee and lunch at the Koninkrijk Koffiehuis (I have a weakness for Dutch-themed anything) and made my way to Warner Valley. I wanted to visit Devils Kitchen and I figured quite correctly that there wouldn’t be many folks on the trail in the afternoon.
22. Devils Kitchen #2
I had been warned the bridge into Devils Kitchen was “out” (in fact, a replacement bridge was scheduled to be delivered by helicopter the next day), but when I arrived a few boards had been placed across the little creek and I had the whole place to myself. The vibe at Devils Kitchen is different than that of Bumpass Hell - there are fewer large hot springs, but certainly more up-close fumaroles which gives the whole area a sulfur smell. Devils Kitchen is a nice alternative to Bumpass Hell, albeit one that is quite remote relative to the rest of the park; it is certainly closer to Chester than the main gate of the park, so if you have an afternoon to spend after your arrival into town, this is a good option. Just know a stretch of the trail weaves its way through Dixie Fire damage.
Four more photographs of Devils Kitchen follow.
23. Devils Kitchen #3
24. Devils Kitchen #4
25. Devils Kitchen #5
26. Devils Kitchen #6
27. Devils Kitchen Trail
It is also worth nothing that -unlike large portions of the park- the Devils Kitchen Trail features tall grassy patches, so wear long pants, or at least spray yourself to prevent tick bites. Be on the watch for mountain lions, as well, as there is a large rock cliff with lots of potential dens along the way. As it was in my case, the only large mammal I spotted on my hike (and in pretty much the whole of the park) was this deer.
28. The Pacific Crest Trail
The Pacific Crest Trail runs from the Mexico-California border to the Washington State-Canada border over 2,653 miles / 4,270 kilometers, 24 miles / 39 kilometers of which are within Lassen Volcanic National Park.
A pretty neat upside of heading to Devils Creek is you’ll walk briefly on a stretch of the Pacific Crest Trail, so you can tell people like I do that you’re a “PCT section hiker.” No, I don’t really tell people that….
