The Great Ocean Walk (Milanesia Track to The Gables)
Day Nine - Australia & the Great Ocean Walk - 2025
A beautiful beach, stunning vistas, an up-close koala encounter … and a leech: my favorite day of the Great Ocean Walk.
1. Milanesia Track to The Gables #1
Along the Great Ocean Walk, the trek between Milanesia Track and The Gables is 16 kilometers / 10 miles.
The following morning (right after I feel I perfected use of the coffee machine at the cottage), we returned back to the gate along Milanesia Track where we were picked up the afternoon before. This day started with a long, steep downhill on a surprisingly muddy track. Thankfully I had my hiking poles, otherwise it would have been a very slow (or, perhaps, very embarrassing) go indeed!
Having collectively reached the bottom, we arrived at Milanesia Beach.
2. Milanesia Track to The Gables #2
At the bottom of the hill, the Milanesia Creek empties into the ocean - an ideal place to clean off the mud from our boots. As a random aside, the boot sole of one of the members of my group became detached during the long downhill; we wrapped it with duct and medical tape and -I still can’t believe this- the boot made it all the way to the Twelve Apostles.
3. Milanesia Track to The Gables #3
Here’s a warning: the climb-out from Milanesia Beach is quite steep!
4. Milanesia Track to The Gables #4
Our next stop was the campsite and lookout at Ryan’s Den.
5. Milanesia Track to The Gables #5
Working out way up the hill, we passed this wallaby clinging to the hillside.
6. Milanesia Track to The Gables #6
Once atop the bluff, you are continually rewarded with great views to the east …
7. Milanesia Track to The Gables #7
… And to the west!
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8. Milanesia Track to The Gables #8
Pulling into Ryan’s Den, there was a chunky koala just mugging it for the camera right next to the ablution. Thankfully, it was on its best behavior during our visit.
Two more photos of the koala follow.
9. Milanesia Track to The Gables #9
10. Milanesia Track to The Gables #10
11. Milanesia Track to The Gables #11
While waiting for the toilet, someone said to me, “Your foot is bleeding really badly!” And, sure enough, they was right: there was a giant patch of blood working both up and down my wool sock and it was starting to even get onto my shoe. I looked down, perplexed - if I were cut bad enough to make this much blood, wouldn’t I feel it? What the hell was going on?
I hobbled over to the picnic table where my group was having morning coffee and tea, removed my shoe and sock, and started swabbing madly at this tiny little cut gushing an alarming amount of blood from my ankle. “Are you cut or hurt,” the guide queried. “I don’t think so,” I responded. “Must’ve been a leech.”
At this point in my life, I have hiked all over the world through all matter of swampland and bog, forest and glade, river and stream and never once had a leech. Our route hadn’t really passed directly into any damp vegetation, either. Then I realized: down at Milanesia Beach, I must have picked it up when cleaning my boots off in the river. By this point, I had walked about three miles / five kilometers with my sock becomingly increasingly soaked in blood. Honestly, I’m surprised it took anyone (including myself) this long to notice, but -to quote The Shawshank Redemption- seriously, how often do you really look at a mans shoes?
12. Milanesia Track to The Gables #12
Anyway, leech aftermath dealt with, it was time to admire the view from Ryan’s Den, certainly amount the best viewpoints along the Great Ocean Walk.
13. Milanesia Track to The Gables #13
Our next objective was The Gables, our exit point of the day. From Ryan’s Den, the track would travel atop the cliffs above the water for some distance before turning sharply northward alongside a road to avoid private property.
Right about this time, the only inclement weather of the trek rolled in resulting in some quick downpours and an incredibly strong wind.
14. Milanesia Track to The Gables #14
After departing the road, the remainder of the trek winds through an impressive forest section before arriving at the outstanding Gables Outlook.
Afterwards it was back to the lodge at Johanna Seaside Cottages for one last amazing evening of food and drink there before calling it quits for the evening … after doing some laundry, of course!
